The short version
You choose a Korean perm solution based on three things: the condition of the hair, the technique, and how you like to work - one solution for everything, or several solutions mixed after a consultation. This guide covers which perm solution suits different hair types and techniques, how Korean perm solutions differ from traditional alkaline perms, and what to look for in the manufacturer's instructions. At the end there is a table of the five solutions in our range. It is written for stylists and salons, so client-facing questions are left out.
How Korean perm solutions differ from traditional perms
Every chemical perm follows the same principle. The first solution contains a reducing agent that breaks some of the disulfide bonds in the keratin, so the hair becomes pliable and takes the shape of the rod. The second solution - the neutralizer - oxidizes the hair and rebuilds those bonds in their new position. Where solutions differ is in the reducing agent they use, the pH they work at and whether they are designed for heat.
Traditional perm lotions are often based on thioglycolates and work in an alkaline environment: the alkali opens up the cuticle so the reducing agent gets into the hair quickly. The Korean solutions used by digital perm stylists more often rely on other reducing agents and a lower pH, include conditioning ingredients and are designed to work with heat. Many Korean lines are also built as a system: several solutions for different hair conditions, used on their own or mixed by the stylist.
That does not mean a Korean solution can go on without a consultation. Any reducing agent changes the structure of the hair, and the result depends on how accurately you match the solution, the timing and the heat.
Active ingredients: thioglycolates, cysteine, cysteamine
On the pack and in the INCI list, the reducing agent is usually one of the first ingredients after water. These are the ones you will see most often in Korean perm solutions:
- **Thioglycolates** (for example ammonium or ethanolamine thioglycolate). The classic perm reducing agents. They work actively, so they are more often chosen for healthy, dense, hard-to-curl hair. On weakened hair they need especially careful timing.
- **Cysteine.** An amino acid that keratin is built from. Cysteine-based solutions are usually chosen for coloured and weakened hair when a gentler process is needed. On very dense, healthy hair they may give a softer curl.
- **Acetylcysteine.** A cysteine derivative. It turns up in Korean perm solutions, often alongside other reducing agents.
- **Cysteamine.** A reducing agent widely used in Korean digital perm and straightening solutions, including neutral and acidic formulas.
One detail worth knowing: a manufacturer may describe a solution as cysteine-based while the INCI list also includes a small amount of thioglycolate. So read the full ingredient list, not just the name on the bottle. If the full list is not published, ask the supplier before using the solution on weakened hair.
Choosing by hair condition
The consultation comes before the choice of solution. Assess the thickness and density of the hair, its porosity, the colour and lightening history, and any previous perms or straightening. On long hair the roots and ends are often in different condition, and you may need different solutions or timings for each.
- **Healthy, dense hair.** Needs a solution with enough strength. Manufacturers' instructions usually give longer heat and processing times for it, and multi-solution systems have a dedicated solution for healthy hair.
- **Coloured hair.** A gentler solution or a mix is the usual choice, with shorter heat. Some manufacturers give coloured hair its own line in the timing table.
- **Damaged hair.** Acidic and mildly acidic solutions, short heat or none at all, shorter processing. Some manufacturers suggest mixing the main solution with an acidic one.
- **Lightened and bleached hair.** The most difficult group. Only after a consultation and a strand test, with a solution the manufacturer explicitly allows for this hair, following a separate method. If you have doubts about the hair, decline the service or limit it to part of the length.
Whatever the hair type, do a strand test: it shows how the hair reacts to the solution and settings before you apply them to the whole head.
Choosing by technique: digital hot perm and cold perm
**Digital (hot) perm.** After processing, the section is wound on the machine's heated rods and the curl is formed under controlled heat. You need a solution whose instructions include a heat method: processing time, heat settings, intermediate rinse. For choosing the machine itself, see our guide How to choose a digital perm machine.
**Cold perm.** A classic perm on rods without a digital machine. Some solutions are designed to process at room temperature, others need gentle heat from a steamer or a heat cap. Check what the instructions actually say: if the manufacturer only gives a method with heat, working without it means going off the instructions.
**Multi-technique solutions.** Some solutions work for both techniques and come with two tables - one for classic perms and one for hot perms. That is handy for a salon that offers both.
Our solutions: which hair and which technique
The table uses only data from our product listings and the manufacturers' instructions.
Solution | Reducing agent | Hair | Technique | Format |
|---|---|---|---|---|
cysteamine | H - healthy (pH 7.0), N - damaged and coloured (pH 4.5), H and N mixed after consultation | digital and hot perms, straightening | H, N and neutralizer L, 400 ml each | |
cysteamine, pH 3.0 | healthy and damaged, one solution adjusted by time and heat | classic rod perms and hot perms | solution and neutralizer, 400 ml each | |
not stated by the manufacturer | healthy, coloured, damaged; very damaged - mixed with an acidic solution | classic and hot perms | 1st and 2nd solutions, 150 ml each | |
cysteine HCl, INCI also lists ethanolamine thioglycolate | not split by hair type, one method | cold perm without heat | lotion and cream neutralizer, 90 ml each | |
acetylcysteine and cysteamine | normal and damaged, separate timings | rod perm with heat up to 60 °C | 155 ml lotion and 165 ml neutralizer, box of 30 |
A few notes on each solution.
**Beati Miracle Silky Glow** is a system for stylists who work from a consultation. H is neutral, for healthy hair and a firm curl; N is mildly acidic with more keratin, for coloured and damaged hair. As a guide, the brand processes healthy hair with H only plus heat, moderately damaged hair with a mix of H and N, and damaged hair with N only and no heat. On bleached hair the brand allows N after a consultation and a strand test.
**Beati Multi Silky Glow** is one acidic solution for all hair types: you do not mix it, you adjust the processing time and heat. The brand gives separate methods for classic rod perms and hot perms, for healthy and for damaged hair. Professional use only.
**ISTHIEF Balance Perm** is a multi-perm with timing tables for both classic and hot perms. For hot perms on damaged and very damaged hair, the manufacturer suggests mixing it with an acidic solution, and bleached hair should be permed with the acidic solution only. The acidic solution is not included.
**Iljin Keron Cysteine Wave** has the simplest method: a cold perm without heat, one processing time up to the curl test, and a cream neutralizer based on sodium bromate applied straight onto the rods. The manufacturer describes it as cysteine-based, but the INCI list also includes ethanolamine thioglycolate - keep that in mind during the consultation.
**Iljin Acetyl Keron Cysteine** is made for perms with gentle heat: both of the manufacturer's methods include heat no higher than 60 °C and 10 minutes of processing at room temperature, and there is no method without heat. For rod perms you will need a steamer or a heat cap.
Beati solutions are in the Korean perm solutions category, ISTHIEF and Iljin are in cold perm lotions. Steamers for the heat stages are in hair steamers, and rods are in perm rods and consumables. If you are adding digital perms to your menu, the Create Wave Master machine can come with training - see the Machine and training page.
Neutralizer, strand test and precautions
**Neutralizer.** Use the neutralizer from the same line as the first solution and stick to the timing in the instructions: it varies from product to product, and some neutralizers are applied twice with a gap in between. Check what it is based on - neutralizers use either hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate. According to the maker of Iljin Acetyl Keron, a peroxide neutralizer can turn dark hair slightly brownish, so plan for that.
**Strand test.** Before working on the whole head, test the solution and settings on a single section. This matters most on coloured, lightened and uneven hair.
**Skin sensitivity test.** Some manufacturers require one before the service. For Iljin Keron Cysteine, for example, the solution is applied to the inner arm or behind the ear and left for 48 hours.
**Precautions.** Do not apply the solution to a scalp with cuts or irritation, protect the eyes and wear gloves. Professional-use solutions should not be handed to clients for home use.
**Storage.** The makers of ISTHIEF and Iljin Acetyl Keron specify storage in a dark place below 15 °C. Close the packs after use and keep an eye on the shelf life.
FAQ
Which perm solution should I use on coloured hair?
Usually a gentler solution or a mix, with shorter heat. In our range, Beati Miracle Silky Glow (N or a mix of H and N) and ISTHIEF Balance Perm have separate methods for coloured hair. The final decision comes after a consultation and a strand test.
Can I do a digital perm with a cold perm lotion?
Only if the manufacturer gives a method with heat. If the instructions only cover processing at room temperature, as with Iljin Keron Cysteine, using the machine's heat means going beyond the instructions.
How does a cysteine solution differ from a thioglycolate one?
Cysteine usually works more gently, so it is chosen for weakened and coloured hair. Thioglycolates are more active and more often suit healthy, dense hair. The product name does not always tell the whole story, though, so check the full ingredient list.
Do I need to mix solutions?
It depends on the system. Beati Miracle Silky Glow is designed for mixing H and N to suit the hair. Beati Multi Silky Glow is not mixed - you adjust it by time and heat. For ISTHIEF Balance Perm, the manufacturer suggests mixing it with an acidic solution for hot perms on damaged hair.
Which neutralizer should I use?
The one that comes with the solution, for the time given in the instructions. Pairing one brand's first solution with another brand's neutralizer is not a good idea: the method is built around the pair.
Can I perm bleached hair?
Only after a consultation and a strand test, and only with a solution the manufacturer allows for bleached hair. Beati allows its N solution depending on the hair's condition, while ISTHIEF recommends only an acidic solution for bleached hair.