Iljin Keron Cysteine Wave cysteine perm lotion 1+2, 90 ml

Keron Cysteine Wave (케론 시스테인 웨이브, spelled Calon Cysteine on the bottle) is a cysteine lotion for cold perms from Korea's Iljin Cosmetic. Each set has two 90 ml bottles: Active Lotion 1 and Neutralizer 2, an instant cream neutralizer applied on the rods. The anniversary box is marked Since 1976.

According to the manufacturer, the main active is cysteine, an amino acid the brand describes as derived from hair, as opposed to the usual thioglycolic acid lotions. Cysteine HCl comes first after water in the INCI list, though ethanolamine thioglycolate is also listed, which is worth keeping in mind during diagnosis. The manufacturer says the lotion does not irritate the hair, scalp or the stylist's hands and gives a wave without damage or colour change. It promises strong body, a flexible wave, easy setting and a lively cut. According to the manufacturer, PPT protein softens the wave, and there is hardly any unpleasant smell while you work. The neutralizer is based on sodium bromate rather than hydrogen peroxide.

How it differs. Iljin Acetyl Keron Cysteine comes from the same maker but uses a different formula: acetyl cysteine (40,000 ppm) plus cysteamine, heat at 60 °C or below, separate timings for damaged and normal hair, a hydrogen peroxide neutralizer and 155 ml and 165 ml bottles. ISTHIEF Balance Perm is a 150 ml multi perm with timing tables for four hair conditions and for hot perms. Beati Multi Silky Glow is an acidic pH 3.0 cysteamine solution in 400 ml pouches for cold and hot perms. Keron Cysteine is the simplest of the group: a cold perm with no heat, one processing time and a small bottle for a single service.

We supply it made to order and ship from Korea within 30 days to Asia, the Middle East and the CIS.

For matching a solution to the hair and the technique, see the guide How to choose a Korean perm solution.

Who it is for

• Stylists doing classic cold perms on rods without heat.
• Salons that like a single-use 90+90 ml set per client, or stock up with a box of 10 or 30.
• Services where a mild smell matters: the manufacturer says there is hardly any unpleasant odour.
• Cuts that need a full but flexible wave.

FAQ

Does it need heat?

The manufacturer's instructions do not mention heat: step 1 is processed for 20-25 minutes at room temperature.

What pack sizes are there?

A single 90+90 ml set, a box of 10 sets or a box of 30 sets.

How is the neutralizer different?

It is a cream applied directly on the rods, and it is based on sodium bromate rather than hydrogen peroxide.

Safety and storage

From the manufacturer's label and description:

• The product contains a reducing agent and an oxidising agent, so always carry out a patch test before use: apply a coin-sized drop to the inner forearm or behind the ear and check the skin after 48 hours.
• If red spots, swelling, itching, blisters or irritation appear after the test, during or after the service, including from exposure to direct sunlight, stop using the product, do not rub the area and see a dermatologist: continued use makes the symptoms worse.
• Do not apply to areas with wounds, boils, eczema, dermatitis or other skin problems on the scalp, face, neck or hands: the solution can cause severe irritation and inflammation.
• Do not use if you have or have had an allergy or hypersensitivity to alkaline cosmetics (perm and straightening products) or to medicines.
• Do not use before or after menstruation, before or after childbirth, or after illness: the body becomes more sensitive and an allergic reaction is possible.
• Do not use if you have an individual hypersensitivity or a history of scalp or skin conditions.
• If the product gets into the eyes, rinse immediately. Contact with the eyes or swallowing can cause serious harm.

Storage: close the cap tightly after use; keep out of reach of children; do not store in very hot or cold places or in sunlight.

• Apply step 1 to the hair, wind, and do a test curl after 20-25 minutes.
• Once the curl has formed, leave the rods in, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water (mid-rinse) and blot off the moisture.
• Apply step 2 on the rods twice, 7-8 minutes apart, then remove the rods and rinse.

The manufacturer requires a sensitivity test before use: apply a small amount to the inner arm or behind the ear and check after 48 hours. Do not apply to a scalp with cuts or irritation, and keep away from the eyes.